Skip to main content

Turf Report

We work hard to give our customers the best lawn care experience as possible.  In addition to providing exceptional service, we strive to educate our customers on ways they can keep their lawn healthy and green all season long. Check out our seasonal tips below to learn how you can maintain your turf!

What's Happening Now:

We are now applying slow release FERTILIZER and spraying summer weeds where needed.  (Broadleaf weed control will help control broadleaf weeds present in the lawn at the time of the application.  Weeds germinate every day and should be tolerated between visits.  Broadleaf weeds that germinate after this application will be taken care of with the next service.  Broadleaf weed control does not prevent broadleaf weeds from coming up later.)   It is recommended (based on our area, types of grasses, soil composition) that lawns should be fertilized approximately 3 to 4 times per year.  Fertilizers applied during June, July and August are slow release, heat friendly, and designed specifically for summertime use.  It only releases from moisture, not temperature.  Catching a few rain showers over a few week period will help keep the root system strong as well as help grow out disease and mowing stress.

We are also applying PREVENTATIVE GRUB CONTROL.  White Grubs are the larvae of many different species of BEETLES.  In July, beetles lay their eggs in the soil. Grubs emerge between late August through the beginning of November and feed on the grass roots.  This is the only time frame that grubs can cause damage to the turf. The damaged turf dies, turns brown and can be pulled up like a piece of sod.  After grubs are done feeding, they go deep into the soil where they stay for the winter.  During the spring, grubs work their way to the surface to come out of the ground (June/July) as the beetle.  As grubs are coming to the surface during the spring, skunks, moles, crows and blackbirds can create damage to the turf by digging for them.  Applying preventative grub control in July or the first half of August is 100% guaranteed that the turf will not be damaged by grubs this season.



Summer is a good time for insect controls (preventative grub control, surface feeding insect control, tick control, etc).  When turf is weak, insects can attack.  Most often, the damage goes unnoticed because it mimics stressed/diseased turf.


Lawn Disease Alert:

Red Thread, Dollar Spot and Leaf Spot are appearing in lawns.  These diseases are most easily seen right after mowing as pink/red (red thread), white/brown patches that appears like "cob webs" in the early morning (dollar spot).  These diseases usually do not cause permanent long-term damage.  Applying a fungicide can stop turf diseases from spreading for up to 3 weeks depending on weather.  A second application may be necessary. 



Mowing in the summer months: 

Following some key mowing tips will keep your lawn healthy. Mow the lawn between 3 1/2-4". This will help retain moisture in the grass plant as well as shading the grass roots and soil, keeping them cooler. Mow the lawn only when needed, not based on a schedule. Do not mow during the hottest part of the day and don't mow the lawn when it is wet. Make sure your blades are sharp!   Weather and mowing contribute to DISEASE......such as red thread, leaf spot and dollar spot.  Disease organisms spread easily in fresh cut grass, and the newly cut blades offer an opening for infection.  Lawns are mowed approximately 30 times during the season.  What that means is, the grass plant is cut/injured at least 30 times, making it susceptible to disease each time.   



General requirement - Your lawn should receive roughly 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week (even during the hottest, driest summer months). If rainfall should occur, adjust the amount of watering you do. Usually once every 3 days is sufficient. Deep, infrequent watering to a soil depth of 4-6 inches is recommended. Frequent, light watering that only dampens the grass can cause more harm than good, by creating conditions favorable for diseases to form and earlier crabgrass breakthrough. 

Timing - The best time to water your lawn is very early in the morning (starting around 4 or 5 a.m.). This will allow the lawn to dry as the day progresses. Watering in the middle of the day when temperatures are hot allows the water to evaporate. Evening watering promotes disease problems due to prolonged wetness.

A rule of thumb for figuring out how long to water is to put a coffee can or bucket on the lawn to see how long it takes to collect the 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water. You then know how long it will take to water the lawn to the proper depth.


The following will help lessen crabgrass:

Raise your mowing height, do not weed whack aggressively along the edges, do not over water (if you are sprinklered), do not aerate, spike or dethatch the lawn until fall.