We work hard to give our customers the best lawn care experience as possible. In addition to providing exceptional service, we strive to educate our customers on ways they can keep their lawn healthy and green all season long. Check out our seasonal tips below to learn how you can maintain your turf!
What's Happening Now:
We are now applying Fertilizer/Crabgrass Pre-Post Emergent/Broadleaf Weed Control. This application provides the lawn with the correct amount of nutrients and also helps prevent crabgrass from germinating in the summer (crabgrass pre-emergent is not 100% guaranteed due to many factors beyond our control, for example weather, mowing, weed whacking, etc.). When two crabgrass pre-emergent applications are applied in the spring, there is at least a 90% control based on changing weather conditions throughout the year. Thin lawns and lawns serviced with a partial program may have less of a control. Post emergent crabgrass control up to 3-leaf stage. Broadleaf weed control blanket sprayed on entire service area. Broadleaf weed control will control broadleaf weeds present in the lawn at the time of application. Weeds germinate every day and should be tolerated between visits. Broadleaf weeds that germinate after this application will be taken care of with the next service. Broadleaf weed control does not prevent broadleaf weeds from coming up later. Broadleaf weed control does not control Japanese stiltgrass, crabgrass, nimblewill, bentgrass, nutsedge or anything that looks like a grass. Lawns on a partial program may need a second application of broadleaf weed control (additional charge) later in the season. The lawn is inspected for disease presence.
The following will help lessen crabgrass: Raise your mowing height, do not weed whack aggressively along the edges, do not overwater (if you are sprinklered), do not aerate, spike or dethatch the lawn for 4 months after this service.
Lawn Disease Alert:
Red Thread, Dollar Spot, Leaf Spot and Ascochyta Leaf Blight are appearing in lawns. These diseases are most easily seen right after mowing as pink/red (red thread), white/brown patches that appears like "cob webs" in the early morning (dollar spot), bleached tire tracks (Ascochyta Leaf Blight). There are many factors that determine disease conditions; however, weather and mowing are the most common factors. Extended periods of rain, overcast skies, heat and humidity promote disease activity. When grass stays wet, along with being mowed when wet, can contribute to disease spreading.
Applying a fungicide can stop turf diseases from spreading for up to 3 weeks. If weather conditions persist, a second (and or third) application may be needed.
Below are before and afters. A fungicide was sprayed, and 18 days later, the after photo was taken.
Watering your lawn:
General requirement - Your lawn should receive roughly 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week (even during the hottest, driest summer months). If rainfall should occur, adjust the amount of watering you do. Usually once every 3 days is sufficient. Deep, infrequent watering to a soil depth of 4-6 inches is recommended. Frequent, light watering that only dampens the grass can cause more harm than good, by creating conditions favorable for diseases to form and earlier crabgrass breakthrough.
Timing - The best time to water your lawn is very early in the morning (starting around 4 or 5 a.m.). This will allow the lawn to dry as the day progresses. Watering in the middle of the day when temperatures are hot allows the water to evaporate. Evening watering promotes disease problems due to prolonged wetness.
A rule of thumb for figuring out how long to water is to put a coffee can or bucket on the lawn to see how long it takes to collect the 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water. You then know how long it will take to water the lawn to the proper depth.
Mowing in the summer months:
Following some key mowing tips will keep your lawn healthy. Mow the lawn between 3 1/2-4". This will help retain moisture in the grass plant as well as shading the grass roots and soil, keeping them cooler. Mow the lawn only when needed, not based on a schedule. Do not mow during the hottest part of the day and don't mow the lawn when it is wet. Make sure your blades are sharp! Weather and mowing contribute to DISEASE......such as red thread, leaf spot, dollar spot and Ascochyta Leaf Blight. Disease organisms spread easily in fresh cut grass, and the newly cut blades offer an opening for infection. Lawns are mowed approximately 30 times during the season. What that means is, the grass plant is cut/injured at least 30 times, making it susceptible to disease each time.
Nutsedge will be here before you know it:
Yellow nutsedge is a warm season perennial plant that loves the heat and moist soil. The shallow root system produces many nut-like tubers, which are underground food storage organs. Each of these tubers can germinate and produce new plants. Each new plant can also produce rhizomes which can give rise to additional new plants. During the summer, germination of tubers and seed produced by plants from previous years are capable of producing new yellow nutsedge plants. Because of the seed and tubers that remain in the soil, repeat infestations in subsequent years should be anticipated.
Unlike most lawn weeds, yellow nutsedge is not controlled with applications of traditional annual grassy weed or broadleaf weed control products. This "weed" is a member of the sedge family and requires the use of very specific herbicides to achieve satisfactory control. A nutsedge spray will kill the nutsedge that is up at the time of the application. That is why we recommend waiting until most of the nutsedge has germinated (beginning to mid August) before a control product is applied.
Fall Seeding Schedule:
The window to perform aeration and overseeding is short and the schedule will fill up fast. In addition, for proper seed germination, aeration with overseeding takes priority and is scheduled as follows:
* Core aerations with overseeding will be scheduled: August 30th - October 9th (Soil testing required for us to seed. Dates are weather permitting).
* Core aerations only will be scheduled: October 10th through the beginning of November (weather permitting).